Sunday 28th February: An amazing day with blue skies, mostly sunshine, 12°C to 8°C
Irisburn Hut to Luxmore Hut: 14.6k: 7hrs
Accommodation: Luxmore Hut
Leaving Iris Burn for Luxmore Hut
Looking down on the Big Slip
Not so bad after all
Not raining today
The 7cm Rifle Bird
The crest walk along the Keplers
A balancing act
Stairs ahead
First step of 300 steps
Hanging Valley Shelter at 1390m
View to Lake Te Anau
The photogenic Kea
This is my better side
Hikers on crest - we're going there
Wind gusts of 100kph - hang on
Luxmore Hut above Lake Te anau
Jan scoots off to save 6 good bunks
A most amazing day and almost as good as any of the hikes we have done in Europe. The highlight was getting to the top of the Kepler Mountains, with spectacular views to Lake Te Anau below, then battling 100kph winds across a narrow crest.
It's 6.30am and dark when we rustle each other out of bed and into the dark dining room for breakfast of hot porridge and a cup of tea. By 8am we're out the door on a beautiful sunshiny day. The rain and gales are expected late in the day.
The track zigzags steeply up the side of the mountain through forests and after 2hrs and a 600 metre climb we reach the tree line at 1000m and step into the open bare mountain tops and cold gusty winds. We find a sheltered spot for a muesli bar and put on some extra clothing.
There's still another 400 metres of climbing along a narrow crest then up 300 steps in gusting winds of about 60kph. After 1hr, we reach the Hanging Valley shelter at 1390m, where we huddle in the warm sunshine out of the wind for a second morning tea. We can see other hikers coming towards us across another narrow crest from Luxmore Hut, battling gale force winds which have increased to 80kph. The loo is precariously perched 10 metres out the back of the shelter overhanging a ledge (to allow the drop down) and bolted down with wire ropes and since there's no ladies trees for miles around, it has to do.
As we head out for the next stage, the sign says 2hrs to the Forest Burn Shelter. The wind is increasing but at least it’s not raining or stormy and the sun is out. It's a slog. The winds are now gusting at 100kph and we have trouble staying upright. Finally the Forest Burn Shelter appears down below in the saddle and there's already 3 Belgians sitting on a bench inside. I'm really pleased to see that I'm not the only one who buys a 1kg block of cheese, as they sit there carving theirs up on crackers! Lunch is pre-made rice crackers, butter cheese and peanut paste.
The wind is relentless as we leave and cross the saddle and start to climb the other side. Milton's hat blows off as they pass a 10 minute diversion to Mt Luxmore and he has to abandon his pack and climb up a cliff to retrieve it The rest of us aren't inclined to take the extra time to see the view from the top of Mt Luxmore - another day, another time! Once we're round the corner and start to descend, the wind abates, albeit to 60kph and continues to ease all the way down. Eventually we see the Luxmore Hut below, and I scoot off to get to the hut a bit sooner to "bag" a few bunks. By the time the troops arrive I have already thrown hat, gloves, neck scrunchie, Vest, raincoat and foam belt on 6 low down bunks near a window with lots of light and several hooks for our gear.
We're soon down in the warm kitchen having a cup of tea, looking out over the spectacular view across the mountains, lakes and farmland. It's cold and getting colder as we each heat up a pot of boiling water to take to the wash room to take turns having a splash dash. The cold wind whistles through the window so it has to be a very quick splash. Soon it's time for me and Ian to cut up our veggies - onion, capsicum, carrot and tomato to add to the Back Country dried mince with Surprise Dried Peas. Donna and Milton are having their lentils chile and garlic, plus an alfreda pasta and Jenny and Graham are having a Back Country Chicken Terriaki with mashed potato. All washed down with the last of our wine which we share around because Milton and Donna ran out.
Pat is the hut ranger and gives us the standard fire safety talk and relates how it has been up to 140kph across the saddle. An early night as we think we need to get up at first light for the 6hr walk down the steep track to Brod Bay then along to the Control Gates where we have booked the 3.10pm shuttle to take us back to Te Anau.